South American Rainforest

The Atlantic Rainforest stretches along the Atlantic coast of South America, from the north-eastern corner of Brazil at roughly 5°S almost down to the Uruguayan border at 28°S. Precipitation is largely driven by the trade winds coming off the Atlantic Ocean. Vegetation isn’t uniform, due to variations in rainfall, soil type and elevation. The forest has rich biodiversity and endemism.

At the time of first European contact, the forest was thought to cover over one million square kilometres, making it one of the largest rainforests in the world. It had however already been significantly modified by the agricultural and hunting practices of indigenous peoples: reduced numbers and species of megafauna may, for example, have led to an increase in dense rainforest. Needless to say, the arrival of Europeans greatly accelerated the changes, due for example to sugar, coffee and beef production. Today only around 10% of the forest remains, compared to 500 years ago.

We arrived in Sao Paulo from Heathrow in pouring rain (no change from home!), but by the time we got to Rio the rain had stopped and we had lunch by Copacabana beach. In the afternoon we took the train up Corcovado mountain to the statue of Christ the Redeemer for the classic view of Rio, with the first Morpho of the trip seen on the ascent. We then set off for our first accommodation at Regua Lodge, some 100km north-east of Rio.

 Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu (John Austin)

Three days in Regua

Regua Lodge is in the Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu, which until the 1990s was an estate managed for agricultural and hardwood production. However, in 2001 an NGO was established by descendents of the original landowner with the aim of rewilding the estate and enormous progress has been made since. Until then, native forest just clung to the steep mountain slopes but now the lowland areas have been reforested and extensive lakes have even been created. A number of trails lead from the lodge, plus the garden has feeders that attract tamarins and hummingbirds. As well as many species of butterflies and birds, we saw sloth, capybara and tapir. There is also a moth wall at the lodge.

Golden Lion Tamarins

Following four nights at Regua, we moved to Itatiaia National Park, but on the way made a diversion to try to see Golden Lion Tamarins. International interest in the Atlantic Rainforest was sparked in 1970 by the plight of these primates, which were reduced to around 200 wild individuals. Since then, conservation efforts have resulted in maybe 5000 wild individuals. Visits to the tamarins are limited and escorted, but the benefit is that the rangers can track them via their radio collars. Despite this, our anticipated 2km walk became 5km in near 40°C heat and hope was nearly exhausted when finally a group was found. The tamarins are wild but habituated due to extensive monitoring, so views from tens of metres away were possible.

 Golden Lion Tamarin (Neil Thompson)

Two days in Itatiaia National Park

Our hotel in the Itatiaia National Park was around 600m in altitude and so was noticeably cooler in and around nighttime. It is also a little further from Rio than Regua, to the west-north-west. The road to the hotel is little more than a twisty track through the forest and this provided ideal butterflying conditions, especially with a good variety of nectar plants available. Here, we had our first views of the endemic white Morpho laertes (formerly M. epistrophus), including (for some) being able to get good underside photos.

On our second morning we visited a local waterfall, where M. laertes must have been the commonest butterfly, with three seen flying together several times, while in the afternoon a few of us revisited the hotel road.

Foz do Iguaçu

An early start was required for our flight to Foz do Iguaçu, around 1500km west of Rio and on the borders with both Paraguay and Argentina. The tree-lined streets of Foz seemed to be home to singing blackbirds, but these were probably native Rufous-bellied thrushes! The next day saw us visit the spectacular Iguaçu Falls from the Brazilian side, taking the largely shady 1.5km walk from where excellent views of the falls could be had. On the way back, we stopped for a short walk on another trail, where among other wildlife we saw two Toco toucans, famous for their association with Guinness.

 Iguaçu Falls (Cheryl King)

Argentine Iguazu

The next day we crossed into Argentina, first visiting a small suburban garden famous for its hummingbirds, where some 17 species have been recorded, and then on to the Argentine side of the falls, typically less busy than the Brazilian side and with many more trails to explore. The boardwalk out across the Iguazu river to the Devil’s Throat, the most spectacular part of the falls, is quite long – a challenge in the heat but well worth the effort. There were plenty of butterflies to see, many attracted to damp patches on the ground or just human sweat! Doxocopa butterflies, Purple Emperor look-alikes, were almost everywhere. 

One day in Argentina

From the falls we had several hours drive to our final lodge, some 17km from the paved road and in the forest not far from the Iguazu river on the border with Brazil. On our full day there we explored the local trails, clocking up more butterfly species as we went including over 20 species of skipper. Also seen were Agouti, Rat Snake and a troupe of Capuchins. However, the sighting of the day was a Jaguar at close quarters, by Miguel alone, but it disappeared in a flash.

 Rat Snake (Ian Lockwood Hall)

Return

Many of us then began our journey home, which comprised an initial three-hour drive as well as three flights. We left Brazil as we arrived, in the pouring rain, but thankfully the weather during our visit had been very good.

Conclusion

We only scratched the surface of Brazil and the Atlantic Rainforest but we certainly had a very good introduction to both. Well done to Mike and Miguel for a well organized and executed trip, everything pretty much went to plan. A special thanks goes to Miguel and his magic potion for attracting butterflies, without it we definitely wouldn’t have seen quite so many!